Day three

Forgot to mention about driving into Cocklebiddy last night. It was amazing. The sight of wedgetail eagles on the edge of the road. They are apparently the third largest eagle in the world. They are massive and an awesome sight. The wingspan of these magnificent birds just have to be seen to be believed. There is nothing quite the same as witnessing the power of nature and this was no more apparent than seeing these superb creatures in full flight and just some six or seven metres from our car.

We set off from Cocklebiddy – where, according to the sign outside the motel, there are more budgies than humans who permanently reside there. Over the past few days both Joy and I had noticed the lack of animals either alive or dead on the Nullarbor. We had spotted an emu mother and baby and kangaroos had tried to jump out in front of a caravan we were about to overtake. But considering there are vast areas of nothing but bush to graze on or shelter under, there was a distinct lack of beasts. That all changed today. We set off about 7am on the road to Eucla and the South Australian border and as we headed east we could have had breakfast a numerous number of times by feeding on the fresh roadkill. Thankfully our Shoo Roos which we bought for $21 seem to be doing the trick or we have just been lucky as no live animals were spotted. The shoos are two small devices which the wind blows through and emits a whistling sound which is supposed to keep animals away. Whether it is working we will never know but touch wood we have not hit anything yet. We reached Eucla mid-afternoon and went and did the touristy thing at the old Eucla telegraph station. These are ruins which over the years the sand has covered over. Most of the old building was covered in sand – just another example of nature at work. After crossing the border and taking yet another picture of a sign warning us of more animals ahead, we headed for the Great Australian Bight.

joy by one of the many warning signs

We had both seen pictures of the bight cliffs in books etc but nothing can prepare you for it first hand. It was windy as hell and you can get right to the edge of the most amazing cliffs I have ever seen.

joy on the bight

It was awe-inspiring and scary at the same time, especially when Joy tripped over her thong (that’s flip-flop to all you British readers) and headed towards the cliff edge. Thankfully she was ok but it scared the holy crap out of me, although as most people who know me would know, I am a bit of a drama queen. These cliffs are magnificent but erosion is doing its bit to get rid of them. There are even some places which are now shut off as it is too dangerous. Just another example of the power of nature. There seems to be a bloody theme starting here!!! With the bight behind us we headed for Ceduna and the end of the Nullarbor. This is where the true Nullarbor Plain starts and there were some parts which were without trees as Nullarbor means but both Joy and  were amazed how diverse the landscape was. It was not as barren as we had expected and certainly not as bleak. But it did hit home just how remote the place is when you see some stretches of road doubling up as emergency landing strips for the Royal Flying Doctor Service. We finally reached Ceduna about 7pm SA time and still had time to set up camp in daylight. Oh the beauty of daylight saving!!! We toasted our success and settled down to what we thought would be a deep sleep dreaming of the great journey we just been on. Day four should be a beauty.

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